Belief's - Myth's - Truth's
Why should we be using finishing plastic to fill in the minor imperfections, such as heavy grinder scratches and pinholes? Why not use single component glazing
putty or "pound" on the primer?
Before answering the above questions a statement must be made about the evolution of bodyfillers. The polyesters of yesteryear were very, VERY hard, and very, VERY hard to sand and form. The chemical makeup objectives of polyesters are to match the rigidity and flexibility of steel. So, when applied to steel, as the steel expands and contracts with the temperature and moisture changes the applied polyester bodyfiller will move with the metal, stay adhered and remain conformed to the metal. As polyester bodyfiller became more and more popular and sales competition increased, they become softer. That is, manufacturers used more talc and softer fillers so they would sand easier. Was it product improvement, or "sales" driven? Anyone who has been around to see these changes will agree. So, the problems of seeing sand scratches and half filled pinholes in old bodywork is NOT the bodyman's fault, NOT the painter's fault, and NOT the primer's fault! It is due to the changes over the years in the polyester bodyfiller development, it has gotten softer.
Let me explain...................................
Today's urethane primer can provide dry film builds of up to 8.0 mils. That is enough filling power to do some major filling. Before continuing, I must reflect back in time once more. All right, so I'm an old guy humor me hear, when I started in the business as a young "lad" in the early 60's bodywork came over to paint shop "ready to paint". IT'S TRUE! I would get "THUMPED" if I even touched the bodyman's area of repair! When faster primers arrived the paint shop started priming. Whether the bodywork was lead or the early polyesters, it was smooth. Meaning no grinder marks, no heavy sand scratches, and no pinholes. When the paint shop first started priming the only objective for the paint shop was to bring up the "smooth" bodywork area to the existing finish. Somewhere along time the "exception" became the rule. That is the old saying, "Prime it out". It is "G's" opinion that the number 1 product abused is primer. Number 2 being the "scuff pad", but that's another section.
When we do apply heavy amounts of today's primer surfacers over those heavy scratches and pinholes in today's polyesters, we do receive the necessary build to cover them up, block them level, paint the area, and things look very good leaving the shop. The problem is later on when the car is out in the elements of differing temperatures and relative humidity. The entire car shell, along with everything on it expands and contracts. The primer surfacer that has been applied over these heavy scratches (80 grit) or pinholes will eventually "settle". This results in visible sand marks.
This happens because rough grit tears or "plows" today's softer polyesters, as the photo on the left illustrates (80 grit). The softer or "light weight" polyesters are particularly prone to this phenomenon. Heavy coarse grits provide a poor foundation. Over time, the different products and the metal expand and contract at slightly different rates, causing that torn up or "plowed" polyester to break off and settle where the primer surfacer could not completely fill. When this happens, because the primer, sealer and topcoats have more flexibility that metal or polyester, distortion of the topcoat happens resulting in visible sand marks.
A piece of a popular 80 grit long board sand
paper magnified 60 times.
The pictures above (x60 magnification) are of two popular 80 grit sand papers used in today's bodyshop. Notice the irregular abrasive shape that causes "plowing" of the polyesters in all three of the above pictures.
Isn't modern technology GREAT!
When pinholes are filled in polyesters, air is entrapped and becomes pressurized by either pressing glazing putty into the hole or from the pressure of the heavy primer pigment. In either case, it is virtually impossible to fill the pinhole completely without leaving any air inside.
(pictures coming soon)
What is needed is the same "rigidity" of surfaces, so that when the "over pressurized" air escapes or increases in volume due to heating or cooling from the metal below, the topcoat will not conform and be deformed. For an example of this, within a fiberglass structure we will find "air pockets" under the gel coat next to the fiberglass matte and resin, yet the top surfaces have not deformed. This is due to the equal wall strength, rigidity and flexibility of the "like " products. They will hold the top surface from deforming.
The example below if "like" products are not used to fill imperfections:
The primer (yellow) being not as "rigid" in surface tension will distort and "fall down" and settle with the underlying surface.
sand mark sand mark pinhole depression
Polyester bodyfiller (orange) Air is entrapped.
This area breaks off and settles Increases or decreases of that
causing the surface to distort. trapped air distorts the surface.
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Because a finishing plastic sands easier than a bulk filler and the plastic should at this stage already be level, the finishing plastic only needs to fill the minor imperfections such as 80 grit scratches and any pinholes. It performs the exact function as the gel coat does on fiberglass. We can now finish it with a finer grit paper, 180 grit or finer.
Now that the bodyfiller is level and free of any heavy deep scratches or pinholes, it is time for primer surfacer. As always, don't forget to treat the bare metal! The general mil build required, if the bodywork is smooth and level) is 3-4 mils. That will bring the level repaired area up to that of the existing OEM finish.
Application of today's high build primer surfacers can also be the source of some sand scratch and pinhole problems, along with contour mapping if the existing OEM finish is not properly feather edged.
 So number 1, make sure feather edging is done properly.
 Don't sand primer that is not thoroughly dry.
 Use a "good" and clean primer gun. Use the recommended fluid tip for the primer used.
 Don't use too low of pressure when priming.
 Don't over apply the primer
 Don't exceed the potlife of the primer. Although the product still might spray, the material has cross-linked (hardened) to a point where spraying is difficult resulting in over application.
 Observe primer flash times. If they are not observed during drying, solvent can collect under the surface of the paint film. Either the primer will not dry thoroughly eventually showing sand marks or pinholes will be visible.
Bottom line, the paint shop has to do it right, as well.
On to the next page!
Some interesting "real world" testing!
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